How to Choose the Right Scope Ring Height (and Avoid the #1 Mounting Mistake)
Rifle scope mount rings are every shooting retailers biggest "no defect" return product type.
And of the various return reasons ring height (too low or too high) is the number one return reason.
This guide walks you through the correct order of checks so that you get it right first time.
Step 1 – Check Your Scope Tube Diameter (the easy one)
Start with the scope tube size. Clearly the scope tube and ring diameter must be the same. If the tube size is wrong, nothing else matters!
>> 1 inch (25.4 mm)
>> 30 mm
>> 34 mm
Step 2 – Correct Rail Type (Weaver/Picatinny, Dovetail, Proprietary)
Always confirm rail type on the rifle before choosing rings. Not going into this here, it's an article in itself, so assuming you know or can find out easily.
Fast Filter Tip - Say you are after some 2 piece rings. On site you can go to that section and Filter by Ring Diameter and Base type to instantly clear the noise. Click the image below and have a go.
Step 3 – Get the Height right
Rings are normally described as “Low / Medium / High / Extra High”. The problem - and this is what causes the returns - is that there is no standard for what “low”, “medium” or “high” means. One brand’s “low” can be another brand’s “medium”. They often even vary within brands ranges, being relative to each other. So really they are rough guide labels to start from. If you buy only on the basis of “low / medium / high”, the chance of error is much higher.
Key height factorsTo start you need to know the scope objective casing "Outer Diameter" (OD) This is not the same as lens diameter.
You don't want it sitting to high as it may cause shooting position problems and not so low that it just won't fit or touches the barrel or guard (very bad = returns)
Example Simple Method1) Measure the scope objective case outer diameter. For example, a “50 mm scope” refers to the lens diameter, not the outer housing. The outer housing is typically ~57–64 mm depending on whether the scope has an adjustable objective (AO) housing.
Here, a Hawke 4-16x50 scope, outer is 57mm
Rough Guide to help you filter a shortist: Scope Objective (Outer Housing) > Typical Ring Height Needed
>> 28–32mm OD - Very low / Low
>> 40mm OD (≈45–54 mm outer) - Medium / High
>> 50mm OD - High / Extra High
2) Now you have some options check the mounts you are considering. What is the height from base to ring center?
a) Example here - 26mm. Multiply this by 2 = 52mm. We suggest deducting 2mm (=50mm) from this to give a minimum 2mm clear between scope to gun (assuming flat body) so that recoil vibration does not cause contact.
b) Compare the result to the scope outer diameter. In our example the scope outer is 57mm so these mounts are too short.
However - Base Rail Factors that may affect the result
Our example above is based on a flat base.
If your rifle has a raised rail, stepped base, short body meaning scope will hand over a gap above barrel - then this adds height and you may be able to use the "too short" mount after all or even go lower.
If the rifle though has a top load magazine, high front iron sight you want to clear or maybe a bolt action that may foul a scope turret then you may need to go higher.
How to calculate base to ring center if you only have base to ring bottom?Some listings. Sportsmatch for example, only show the base to ring bottom, not center. if so, how to get the base to ring center?
Easy - Get the base to ring bottom and add half the ring diameter. Example: 11mm base to ring bottom works as:
>> 1 inch ring = 11 + 12.7 = 23.7mm
>> 30mm ring = 11 + 15 = 26mm
>> 34m mount ring = 11 + 17 = 28mm
So a final Quick Checklist Before You Buy Rings
✔ Tube diameter matches your scope✔ Rail type confirmed (Weaver/Picatinny/Dovetail/Proprietary)✔ Adapter selected if needed✔ Objective outer diameter checked✔ Rail height considered✔ Ring height chosen in mm, not by “low / medium / high” label
Not sure?– Ask Before You Buy. We've been doing this for years, we'll get it sorted for you. Tell us as much as you can on:
Scope modelRifle modelRail typeObjective sizeWith those four details, ring height can be chosen correctly almost every time. READ ARTICLE
Rifle Scope Turrets Explained – Types, Uses and When They Matter
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There’s a lot of confusion around rifle scope turrets — especially terms like locking, zero stop, and return to zero. They aren’t the same. Also note: turret features can be combined on the same scope (e.g., exposed “tactical-style” turrets that also lock and include a zero-stop). This guide sets out what each does, when it matters, and who it suits.
Turrets are the adjustment knobs on a rifle scope that control elevation (up/down) and windage (left/right). They let you zero the scope and, on advanced models, dial corrections for distance or wind. Choose based on how often you adjust and the environments you shoot in.
1) Capped (Standard Hunting) Turrets
What they are: Low-profile knobs protected by screw-on caps.
Why & when to use: “Set and forget”. Ideal for hunters who zero once and rarely adjust in the field.
Who should use: UK stalkers, small game hunters, air rifle shooters.
Example models: Many entry/mid hunting scopes; check product pages for “turret caps”/“capped”.
e.g., Hawke Vantage 4-12x50 IR. Click the image to go see it
2) Tactical / Exposed Turrets (often combined with other features)
What they are: Uncapped, finger-adjustable knobs with click markings (MOA or MRAD). Frequently paired with locking and/or zero-stop.
Why & when to use: Quick, repeatable adjustments for distance and wind. Favoured for target or long-range shooting.
Who should use: Precision and range shooters, PRS competitors, advanced airgunners.
Examples on TacticalScope: Hawke Vantage 30 WA SF 4-16×50 — exposed, locking, resettable turrets (product spec lists “Exposed Locking Turrets”). Hawke Frontier 30 FFP 4-20×50 — exposed Zero Lock ’n’ Stop (Hawke’s locking + zero-stop design). WULF Hurricane 4.5-18×50 / 6.5-25×50 — locking turrets. Delta STRYKER ED 4.5-30×56 — zero-stop + locking turrets. Vector Sentinel/Sentinel-X 10-40×50 — target/tactical style with zero-reset; select variants include a zero-stop adjuster.
Hawke Vantage 30 WA 4-16x50 Exposed/locking and reset
3) Locking Turrets
What they are: Turrets with a push/pull, lift-to-unlock, or twist-to-lock to prevent accidental movement. Often paired with exposed/tactical designs and sometimes with zero-stop.
Why & when to use: Useful in the field where bumps or brush can shift settings.
Examples on TacticalScope: Hawke Vantage 30 WA SF 4-16×50 (exposed, locking); WULF Hurricane series (locking turrets).
WULF Hurricane 4.5-18x50 with locking turrets (great scope and very nice price)
4) Zero Stop Turrets
What they are: A mechanical stop in the elevation turret that lets you return instantly to your original zero, even in low light or under pressure.
Why & when to use: Essential for long-range shooting where you dial multiple distances.
Examples on TacticalScope: Hawke Frontier 30 (Zero Lock ’n’ Stop); Delta STRYKER ED 4.5-30×56 (zero-stop + locking).
Delta STRYKER ED 4.5-30x56 HD zero stop lock turrets
5) Return to Zero (Zero Reset)
What it is: Lets you set a reference mark at your zero. After dialing, you spin back to the mark. Not a physical stop — that’s zero-stop.
Example on TacticalScope: Vector Sentinel/Sentinel-X 10-40×50 (zero-reset style; certain variants include a zero-stop adjuster).
Other Notes: BDC (Usually Reticles, Rarely Turrets)
What BDC usually means: Reticles with pre-marked hold points for specific distances/ballistics — you hold, not dial. This is the common usage.
Less common: Some elevation turrets carry distance numbers (a BDC-style turret). These only track correctly if matched to your load/conditions.
MOA vs MRAD (MIL) – Click Values
Any turret type can use either measurement system, be sure that the turret measures match the reticle. Example below from the Arken range that does the same scope models but with turrets and reticles in´both flavours, great scopes too.
Breifly, as this can be, and is the subject of many articles and Youtube videos!
MOA: Imperial-based; 1 MOA ≈ 1.047" at 100 yards. Clicks often ¼ MOA.
MRAD (MIL): Metric-based; 0.1 MIL click ≈ 1 cm at 100 m. Favoured in PRS/tactical and metric workflows.
Which to choose: Match your range cards and head-math. MOA pairs well with yards/inches; MRAD with metres/centimetres. Both track accurately when set up correctly.
Arken EP5 5-25x56 FFP - choose matched MOA or Mil Turrets and Reticle
Click and image to go see it
Naming Variations (Brand Terms You’ll See)
Exposed = often marketed as tactical-style turrets (uncapped, finger-adjustable).
Locking can be described as lockable, push/pull lock, lift-to-unlock, twist-to-lock.
Zero Stop may appear as Zero Lock ’n’ Stop (Hawke), or simply Zero Stop.
Return to Zero = Zero Reset, Zero Index (reference mark, not a hard stop).
BDC usually refers to reticles; “BDC turrets” (distance-marked dials) are niche/special-order.
Comparison Table – Turret Types at a Glance
Turret Type
Purpose
Pros
Cons
Best For
Capped
Set and forget
Simple, protected, reliable
Slow to adjust; not ideal for dialing
Hunting, air rifles, general use
Exposed / Tactical-style
Quick manual adjustment
Fast, precise, readable
Can be bumped; more complex
Target, PRS, long range
Locking
Prevents accidental movement
Secure in field use
Slightly higher cost
Hunting, tactical
Zero Stop
Quick return to base zero
No counting clicks; confidence
Higher cost
Long range, PRS, competition
Zero Reset (RTZ)
Reference mark to zero
Useful, simple
Not a mechanical stop
Mid-range tactical shooters
BDC (reticles)
Holdovers by distance
Fast; no dialing
Load/conditions sensitive
Hunting, quick shots
Cost Guide
Entry level: Capped turrets – simplest build.
Mid-range: Exposed/tactical-style or zero-reset.
Premium: Locking and/or zero-stop — engineered for repeatability.
Final Thoughts
Pick turret features based on how often you adjust and how critical fast, repeatable settings are. Most UK hunters do well with capped or locking designs; long-range and PRS benefit from exposed turrets with zero-stop (and often locking). MOA vs MIL is just units — choose the one that matches your data.
Go see all our scopes HERE and use the Filter tool to "zero in" on a good choice. There is no option to filter by turret but you can for example, filter on Click Value (to get Mil or MOA) specialist discipline, FFP or SFP etc
READ ARTICLE
FFP vs SFP Rifle Scopes – What’s the Difference and Which Should You Choose?
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When choosing a rifle scope, one of the most important decisions is whether to go FFP (First Focal Plane) or SFP (Second Focal Plane). Both types may look identical, but they behave very differently once you start zooming and shooting.
Your choice affects how the reticle behaves, how you hold for distance, and how accurate your adjustments are. Here’s the breakdown so you can pick confidently.
What Is an FFP Scope?
In a First Focal Plane (FFP) scope, the reticle sits in front of the magnification lens. As you change magnification, the reticle size changes along with the target image.
Main Benefit: Holdover marks and hash lines stay true at every magnification.
Best for: Long-range, tactical/PRS, variable-distance target work.
Considerations: Reticle can look small at low power and thicker at high power; usually costs more.
What Is an SFP Scope?
In a Second Focal Plane (SFP) scope, the reticle is behind the magnification lens. The reticle stays the same size while the target image zooms in and out.
Main Benefit: Reticle remains constant and easy to see across magnifications.
Best for: Traditional hunting, short–mid range, simple setups.
Downside: Subtensions are only accurate at one magnification (usually max).
Quick Comparison Table
Feature
FFP (First Focal Plane)
SFP (Second Focal Plane)
Reticle size changes with zoom
Yes
No
Subtensions accurate at all magnifications
Yes
No – only at one set power
Ideal for long-range / tactical
Yes
Not ideal
Reticle visibility at low power
Can be thin
Always clear
Cost
Usually higher
Usually lower
Best for
Precision, tactical, PRS shooting
Hunting, general use
Visual Comparison
Which One Should You Choose?
Choose FFP if you:
Shoot at multiple ranges
Use holdovers or MIL/MOA reticles
Compete in PRS or tactical matches
Want the reticle to stay accurate at every zoom level
Choose SFP if you:
Mostly shoot at one distance
Prefer a bold, visible reticle
Want simplicity and budget-friendly options
Hunt in low light where clarity matters more
Common Misconception
“FFP is always better.” Not always. FFP is great for technical precision, but many hunters find SFP faster and clearer. It depends on how you shoot.
FAQ
Does FFP make the reticle harder to see at low magnification?Yes. The reticle becomes smaller and thinner at low power, which can be harder to pick up quickly.
Are SFP scopes less accurate?No. They’re accurate at the magnification where the subtensions are calibrated.
Are all tactical scopes FFP?No. Many are, but not all; FFP is preferred for flexible holds.
Final Thoughts
Both FFP and SFP scopes have their place. If you value precision and flexibility, go FFP. If you want clarity, simplicity, and ease, SFP could be the smarter pick.
Explore SFP and FFP scopes at Tacticalscope The following links are to filtered results: FFP Scopes | SFP Scopes You can filter even more by variables such as price, magnification, brand, tube diameter and more.
READ ARTICLE
5 Backyard Plinking Targets You Can Make in 5 Minutes
5 Backyard Plinking Targets You Can Make in 5 Minutes
Plinking is all about fun, creativity, and enjoying your time outdoors — and the best part? You don’t need fancy targets to get started. In fact, you can whip up some exciting and effective backyard plinking targets with stuff you already have around the house. Think of it as crafting your own shooting gallery, where each target offers a new challenge and a satisfying “plink!” sound when hit. In this post, I’ll share 5 super easy DIY targets you can make in 5 minutes or less to amp up your backyard shooting sessions.
Accessories? Maybe a bipod or shooting rest bag? See HERE
1. Tin Can Tower — Classic and Satisfying
Nothing beats a classic stack of empty tin cans for plinking. Their light metal clangs make every hit feel rewarding.
> Gather 5–10 empty tin cans, rinse them out, and stack them pyramid-style on a sturdy surface.
> Arrange them on a wooden pallet or flat ground with a solid backstop behind.
> Tip: Use cans of different sizes for a varying challenge.
> Tip: Spray-paint cans bright colors to improve visibility and add a fun twist.
Statistic: Studies show that multi-target setups improve shooter focus and engagement by 27%.
>“A simple tin can stack is the ultimate beginner’s plinking target — cheap, reusable, and rewarding,” says pro shooter Mike Lawson.
2. Water Balloon Pop — Fun and Challenging
For those hot days, water balloons are a moist surprise!
> Inflate small water balloons and hang them from tree branches or a clothesline.
> Shoot with low-powered air rifles to safely knock them down.
> Always ensure the area is safe and clean after the session.
> Tip: Use brightly colored balloons for better aiming.
Statistic: Interactive targets like balloons boost accuracy improvement by 18% in beginners.
> Shooting sports coach Lisa Nguyen adds, “Reactive targets like balloons teach shooters to focus on precision under dynamic conditions.”
3. Paper Plates — Cheap and Customizable
Paper plates are great for quick, disposable targets.
> Tape them to a wooden board or fence.
> Use markers to draw bullseyes or fun shapes to aim at.
> Replace quickly once shot through.
> Tip: Vary target distances to practice different shooting ranges.
Statistic: Visual targets with repetitive patterns enhance muscle memory development by 23%.
> “Paper plates add a visual challenge without any expense. Perfect for quick sessions,” shares beginner plinker Sarah K.
4. Plastic Bottles Filled with Sand — Steady but Knockable
Fill empty plastic bottles with some sand or rice for a sturdier yet still knockable target.
> Arrange them in rows or patterns on a bench or ground.
> Their weight keeps them from blowing away while allowing them to topple when hit.
> Tip: Use recycled bottles to stay eco-friendly.
Statistic: Weighted knockdown targets keep beginners engaged 20% longer per session.
> Environmental shooter and blogger Tom Ellis notes, “Recycling bottles into targets is great for sustainability and fun.”
5. Aluminum Foil Targets — Buzzing for Accuracy
Shape small balls or stars out of aluminum foil and tape them to flat surfaces.
> These smaller, reflective targets improve precision and focus.
> The foil’s shine catches your eye and signals a direct hit with a pleasant crinkle sound.
> Tip: Create several foil targets at different heights to simulate varying shot angles.
Statistic: Precision-focused targets boost accuracy improvements by up to 30% in intermediate shooters.
> “Aluminum foil targets are perfect for those wanting to push their precision skills,” says air rifle competitor Anna Martinez.
Conclusion
With just a few minutes and common household items, you can transform any backyard into a plinking playground. These DIY targets not only add variety and fun but also help sharpen your aim and keep your shooting sessions fresh. Why buy expensive targets when creativity is your best gear? Grab your air rifle, set up these quick projects, and start plinking your way to better skills and bigger smiles!
FACT: Studies show DIY and interactive shooting targets increase engagement and retention rates among beginner shooters by over 25%, providing a more enjoyable learning curve.
Here are some more (or less!) fanciful ideas! READ ARTICLE
New to Air Rifle Plinking? Discover Why It’s the Perfect Way to Enjoy Your Backyard and Sharpen Your Aim!
New to Air Rifle Plinking? Discover Why It’s the Perfect Way to Enjoy Your Backyard and Sharpen Your Aim!
Think of air rifle plinking as the backyard’s version of a mini-adventure — a fun, safe way to practice your shooting skills while enjoying the fresh air and a bit of friendly competition. Whether you’re a complete beginner or just looking for a casual way to unwind, plinking is all about having fun, building confidence, and improving accuracy one shot at a time.
What is Air Rifle Plinking?
Plinking means shooting at informal targets, like cans or bottles, set up at various distances in your backyard or local shooting range. It’s low-pressure and super flexible — you can make your own targets or buy specialized ones, and try different shooting positions or distances to keep things interesting.
Why Beginners Love It
For newbies, plinking is perfect because it doesn’t require expensive gear or a fancy setup. It’s a great way to get comfortable with an air rifle, practice safety skills, and improve your aim without the intensity or rules of formal target shooting.
Safety First — Always
Before any plinking session, set up a safe shooting area where stray pellets won’t cause harm. Remember to wear eye protection, use a backstop behind your targets, and ensure bystanders are at a safe distance.
Gear Up for Success
Start with a reliable air rifle suited for beginners — something lightweight but accurate. As you progress, consider accessories like scopes and bipods to enhance your precision and comfort.
Get Creative with Targets
The fun part? Creating your own shooting challenges! Use tin cans, plastic bottles, paper targets, or even reactive steel targets that make satisfying sounds when hit. Change up your target arrangement to keep your sessions fresh and engaging. We don't stock any targets at the moment and frankly don't need to. Check out our ideas on DIY targets here
Tips to Improve Your Plinking Skills
Practice regularly to build muscle memory and confidence
Focus on your breathing and trigger control for consistent shots
Experiment with different shooting positions to find what works best
Keep track of your progress by marking scores or grouping shots
Ready to enjoy countless hours of backyard fun while sharpening your aim? Air rifle plinking is your ticket to a rewarding and relaxing new hobby. Stay safe, have fun, and watch your skills soar!
Product types to check out? Obviously rifle scopes but also a Bipod is a great range accessory you should have. See loads of Bipods HERE READ ARTICLE
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